As small as it is, it wields a large influence.
Those life-saving meals inspire the menu of Prune. Many of her most vivid food memories come from a post-collegiate backpacking trip through Europe and Asia, when she was taken in and kept from starving by townspeople in Greece, Turkey, France and India. The food served at Hamilton’s New York restaurant - called Prune after her mother’s childhood nickname for her - is food in generous portions, the food “that one craves when one is actually hungry.”Īlthough, unusual for a chef-owner, Hamilton has no prior experience as a head chef, she has something she believed to be more valuable: the memory of hunger. There would be no emulsion, no crab cocktail served in a martini glass with its claw hanging over the rim.” There would be nothing tall on the plate. . . “There would be no foam and no ‘conceptual’ or ‘intellectual’ food. . . admiring the way her purchases are artfully arranged for all to see.” “There’s always the girl with the bicycle, wandering along from stall to stall, with two apples, a bouquet of lavender, and one bell pepper in the basket. That old man also exists for Hamilton because he can be turned into a handy weapon to attack what she hates: the self-conscious, self-admiring and sanctimonious approach to food, personified for her by the urban boutique farmers market: The farmer represents a quality that’s a touchstone in her book - authenticity - and like all emblems of the authentic, he is one of the last of his kind. He pulled back the burlap that covered the wagon of his three-wheeled motor cart and showed me, with shaking arthritic hands, his fresh black-eyed peas in the shell, his dark purple green beans. . .”
“Missing most of his teeth, with his zipper gaping open, he was selling zucchini blossoms under the shade of a large tree. . . Toward the end of “Blood, Bones & Butter,” her prickly and passionate food memoir, Gabrielle Hamilton meets the man of her dreams, an old Italian farmer who keeps a little stall in a marketplace: Digital Replica Edition Home Page Close Menuīlood, Bones & Butter By Gabrielle Hamilton
0 kommentar(er)
